Western Adventures

Eastern Washington, Idaho & Montana…I’ve heard about these places in 4th grade geography and been able to locate them on a map, but never thought I’d ever have a reason (or be close enough to visit). Thankfully, our northwestern escapade brought us through golden pastures filled with Buffalo in Montana and allowed for us to find the coolest of cool town vibes in Idaho.

Before crossing into Idaho, Clayton and I had just under 400 miles to drive across the entire state of Washington. That meant queueing up the iPhone with some solid Podcasts and audio books. We got through nearly all of the Runner’s World Show Podcast and made a small dent in Michael Lewis’ book,  Flash Boys. For the non-driver, it also allowed for plenty of reading time (translate that into I got to plow through my book. Thanks, Clayton).

Our first stop after leaving Seattle found us in Leavenworth, WA a true Bavarian town. As we pulled in we were forced to do a double-take asking ourselves, ‘did we just drive to Germany?’. The entire town center is modeled after a Bavarian village, down to every lamppost and storefront detail. It was pretty cool to find!

Leavenworth, Washington

Back on the road, the scenery was easy on the eyes with wide open fields that bordered our empty roads and a harvest moon hanging low in the big sky leading us east into Idaho. A quick stop in Spokane allowed us to check out Gonzaga University  before crossing the border into the land of famous potatoes.

Despite state stereotypes, I wasn’t greeted with fields of potatoes when entering Idaho. In fact, I don’t even know if we ever saw any. Our first stop in Idaho was Coeur d’Alene, a cool little town surrounded by a beautiful waterfront.  It just so happened an Iron Man race was set to take place the next day. We pretended we were cool enough to actually do one, and browsed through Athlete Village admiring the true athletes surrounding us. Upon further exploring, we copied the locals who were jumping off rock faces into the cool summer Coeur d’Alene lake. It was a necessary refresh and a free shower! (Kidding, kinda).

In true road-trip fashion, we got back into the RV and continued on to Sandpoint. Looking back, I’m sad we ever had to leave this trendy town. A waterfront, running trails, local outfitters, amazing breweries, inspiring coffee shops (that we spent 12+ hours at), I could go on for a while compiling a list of why Sandpoint was one of my favorite towns in our USA travels.

After soaking up Sandpoint’s beach and mountain views we entered the Big Sky Country also known as Montana. I was overly excited about crossing this state border, it seemed like such an ‘untouchable’ place for me. But here we were, pulling off to capture the mountains and low fog rolling in as the sun set. It was beautiful! The beauty continued with a drive through the Bison Nature Reserve. Wildlife was in abundance; we got to see bison, coyotes, and hundreds of prong-horn deer! It was so cool to see them up close!

The August temperatures were in full force as we continued through the state stopping off at the University of Montana and Big Fork, MT where we cooled off with Huckleberry Beer at a local tavern. Our Montana adventures were just beginning as we geared up for Glacier National Park, but not before some Huckleberry Pie!

Pit Stop, USA!

Dogwood campground just outside of Vancouver was your typical campground. A mix of people, including our friendly neighbor Cindy, who seemed to run the place. Our spot was just past the ‘long term stay’ lot, where RVs covered in a mixture of ivy and rust were parked.  I’m pretty sure they were there forever; I guess long term stay is a loose term.

We did the RV duties of hooking electric, connecting the water and emptying the tanks. Once Clayton was done with all that, we did some laundry and like kids on Christmas, waited for Chelsea and Megan to arrive. Finally the steel gray Subaru pulled up with two friendly faces and Nova, the most adorable pup on the planet! Woo hoo!

It was so great to reconnect, and get pumped for our days ahead. Not shortly after they arrived we headed into the city so Megan (aka Gaseor) and I could pick up our race day packets for the Lululemon SeaWheeze half marathon. You all know my infatuation with this company’s products, so needless to say I was so excited! After a smooth process and fun expo treats, we explored the beautiful waterfront city.

With the race beginning at 7AM, Saturday morning was an early wake up call. Chelsea, Clayton and Nova served as the official support crew, dropping us off right near the start line.  Gaseor and I jumped in the starting corral and watched an expansive amount of women wearing spandex fill in around us. The Canadian national anthem bellowed through the crowds and off we went. Weather conditions were prime; a cool breeze mixed with endless blue skies and sunshine. The course was a beautiful 13.1 miles (or 21 kilometers) of entertainment and stunning ocean scenery along the seawall. My highlight: a bald eagle soaring above me around mile 7!  Gaseor and I crossed the finish and were handed a massive race medal (the coolest one i’ve ever seen), unlimited bottles of smart water, snacks, massage oils, and a hat! I guess that’s what happens when you run a race for an absurdly expensive clothing company.

A post-race brunch filled us back up before we hit the road once again. This time, we would be heading back to our home country, the grand old USA. Chelsea, who lives in Seattle had heard good things about Orca’s Island which is located a few miles off the Washington State coastline. I had never driven through a customs border patrol station, and was filled with  nostalgia as we saw signs welcoming us ‘back home’. It had been over four months since we stepped foot in the States, and I thought it was a pretty big deal. The customs officer let us through after a full load of questions about where we live (meh, hard question to answer), where we work (no where), and where we entered Canada from (England). England, that’s weird. Each answer caused a furrowed eyebrow, but we looked non-conspicuous enough and in we went!

A ferry ride took us from Anacortes, Washington over to Orcas Island. Again, more beauty surrounded us, including Mount Baker standing tall in the skyline. Our campground was ideal, cradled by towering pines with a lake across the street, where Nova could enjoy endless games of fetch. We spent our first afternoon on Orcas enjoying the adorable town bakery, book store and local shops before heading out on a hike up Turtleback Mountain. At the top- unbelievable views, and the best part was no bears on the island! At night we had a perfect campfire, and failed trying to stay awake for a supposed meteor shower.

Rounding out our trip, we stopped by an oyster farm and learned how to select our variety of oysters, shuck (carefully) and slurp them up. After, we headed to the well-known Mount Constitution trail head for our final hike on the island. More stellar views greeted us at the top and we came down just in time to catch the Ferry back to the mainland and venture down to Seattle.

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Seattle was the best! Chelsea and her boyfriend Alex let us invade for a few days and showed us around their neighborhood. Ballard, Washington looks as though it’s its own Pinterest board. It’s a compilation of adorably branded breweries and pizza shops mixed with people who just look plain ‘cool’ filling the sidewalks. We explored nearby lakes where we slung hammocks on the trees and paddled around the water. We ate and drank delicious biscuits with homemade jams, fresh tacos and hoppy local brews. Perhaps my favorite activity was renting rollerblades and coasting down the bike path along Alki beach. Complete with a 90’s playlist playing loudly on a portable speaker, we were back in sixth grade and loving every minute of it!

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Sadly, Clayton and I had to make our way east to ensure we were on track for our RV return date. We said our goodbyes and acquainted ourselves again with our home on wheels. Our next few days would lead us straight east across Washington, and into two new states for us both- Idaho and Montana. Adventures of the Wild West, coming up next!

Wine Country, BC

Canada has exceptional visitor centers. Each one situated on the popular driving routes and filled with well-branded and informational brochures, magazines, and even cool stickers! We made it a point to stop in several visitor centers along our drive in Alberta and British Columbia (BC). The volunteer workers there provided us with recommendations on what to see in the nearby area. Their best idea; the hundreds of wineries that line the roads in southern BC.

We stopped in towns with names like Peachland, Summerland, and Okanagan Falls. Hopefully those names help paint the picture of the quaint towns we cruised through. We followed the river for most of our scenic drive on ‘Wine Country Trail’. With each stop we were able to navigate to a local winery for a tasting and learn more about their small operation they had going.

The wineries were pristine. Perfect lines of various grapes filled small areas of land overlooking a giant lake and mountains just beyond. Each had their own story behind it, and were very particular on their branding efforts. We enjoyed hearing the stories of their origins and of course, tasting the variety of wines they had to offer. The coolest part was the size of these wineries. So small and personal you felt you were walking into someones home and enjoying a glass of pinot on their back deck. Other visitors came with baskets full of fine cheeses and artisan breads. We, on the other hand had our ‘Great Value’ brand Colby cheese and a healthy box of Ritz. We’re on a budget people.

We continued on through southern BC, trading in wine tastings for road side fruit stands. Stopping at various stands, we grabbed some of the best blueberries, peaches and plums; sweet as candy. In between the wines and fruits, we still found time for some good hikes, running spots, and even some fly fishing for Clayton. We found an old train track converted into a nice running path- very similar to the Katy Trail back in Clayton’s home town. The trail head was empty, with no signs for overnight parking which was an open invitation for us to park the RV for two nights. We made small talk with the regular trail users, and even a fellow tent camper who set up shop next door.

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As we slowly left the country side (and more bear warnings), we found ourselves on the outskirts of Vancouver. We pulled into a legitimate campground (aren’t you proud), where we would await Chelsea and Megan who were driving up from Seattle for a few days of adventuring.

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RV Time, eh?

It’s RV time! With a bittersweet notion, we were anxious to get to this portion of the journey. We picked up our 19-ft home on wheels for twenty-five days of ultra exploration. The RV company gave us a tutorial, walking us through the the various intricacies of the vehicle. Not all of it was pleasant as they boldly held up yellow rubber gloves and explained how to drain the ‘gray’ and ‘black’ water on occasion. I wasn’t paying attention during that part, so I guess Clayton will have to handle it (kidding, eh, no I’m not).  After we were acquainted, we pulled out of the lot, full of excitement for the days to come.

Our itinerary had us going to the coveted Banff and Jasper National Parks. We’d been stalking these parks for a few years, browsing longingly through Google Images and Instagram shots of the parks’ beauty taken by our favorite photographers. Before leaving town, we stocked up on groceries and other necessary items.

The first item on my list: Bear Spray. We were about to spend three weeks in bear country, and there was no way I was stepping foot into the woods without it. The only problem; everywhere in the Calgary area was completely sold out. Frequent bear sightings, including several attacks meant the stuff was flying off the shelves. With no other alternatives, off we went towards our first mountain town of Canmore. The streets were lined with outdoors enthusiasts, outfitting shops and huge traffic signs reading: EXPECT TO ENCOUNTER BEARS. CARRY BEAR SPRAY. Not comforting.

A little mountain town, we love so much!

Popping into the first outdoors shop (as we always do), I was relieved when I saw bear spray behind the counter. I grilled the worker about the latest bear news and she pulled up a website showing the various and many trails that were closed due to bear sightings. There were ten, yes t-e-n bears right here in the area and sometimes even seen in town. A bad berry season last summer left the bears hungrier than normal and more aggressive as they needed to ensure they got the food they needed this season. Talk about being hangry. A few more bear stories later, we walked out of the store armed with the ‘good stuff’.

BANFF and Jasper were incredible. I feel it isn’t fair to try and explain their beauty, as it is a place where words simply can not do justice. Instead, I will share some of our pictures that I will definitely drool over for many years to come. I’ll also spare you from the ‘amazing hiking’ stories and just say this: we went on some unbelievable hikes, saw incredible scenery and yes even some cool wildlife. I’ll give you one guess which black furry animal I saw once (Clayton twice) from a relatively beary-safe distance. But don’t worry, I memorized the bear safety tips that are plastered everywhere, including the importance of making plenty of noise as you hike so not to startle any bears that may be feeding on berries. I’m pretty sure I let every inch of wildlife in the surrounding area know we were hiking with my makeshift noise maker of tin cup, carabiner and whistle.

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As we navigated the RV through the parks and small surrounding towns, we were lucky to land some pretty great overnight real estate. Not always parking in 100% permitted places, we made sure there wasn’t a clear sign telling us we couldn’t park overnight and we were a quiet and neighbor, so there was never a problem- thankfully! Check out our favorite spot we landed for two nights. Not a bad view to wake up to!

RV life has treated us extremely well. We’ve gotten accustomed to slow mornings watching the sunrise, reading our books, long days hiking and constantly being surrounded by nature. We’ve reminded each other to soak each day in, as life post this portion of the trip may be a bit different (only if we let it, I suppose). Every day has been an adventure and never a dull moment. Even in the middle of the night adventure calls, including our 3AM wake-up call via smoke detector requiring a visit to the local fire department. It’s a story better told in person.

Our time in Banff and Jasper was the coolest. We’ve loved our days coasting through various mountain towns, sleeping at trail heads and breathing the fresh Canadian air. As the days passed we made our way east towards Vancouver where I had a scheduled half-marathon. Before getting there, we made one last stop through British Columbia’s hidden gem: Wine Country. So good, it gets its own post.

Bear Warning Signs We’ve Seen Along the Way:

Bear Markings on the Tree

Bear Prints!

 

United Kingdom Adventures!

Within hours of landing in Scotland (our first English speaking country in three months), we walked into to the first pub we passed, bags in tow and celebrated with a pint. Excited to be in a place that felt somewhat similar, we got a quick nights rest before heading to the world famous British Open.

The next morning the train station was alive with an exciting energy that only a sporting event can provide. Everyone dressed in their various golf-brand outfits boarded the trains heading north to Royal Troon. The train buzzed with dozens of different conversations about weather conditions, todays player expectations and Phil’s unbelievable round the day prior. Clayton and I enjoyed some conversation with other spectators, including a gentleman who was attending the British Open for the 28th time.

Once we arrived, we picked up our tickets waiting at will call for us thanks to one of Clayton’s best friends, Megan who was gracious enough to let us attend and support our favorite golfer, David Lingmerth! The skies were gray, and a constant drizzle fell from above making everything soaking wet, it was exactly what we imagined Scotland weather would be. We did our best to stay dry with the lounge pass we had and anxiously waited for David to tee off. I’ll admit I don’t know a ton about the game of golf, but being surrounded by so many enthusiasts and having someone we know to watch and follow made the experience one of the best! The course was pristine and although David’s result wasn’t what we all hoped for it was great to support him and catch up with Megan as we walked all 18 holes.

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We said our goodbyes to Scotland quicker than expected, and jumped on a train to a place I know and love: Yorkshire, England! It had been about ten years since I’d been back in my birth country, and it felt great being on a familiar stomping ground. I love Yorkshire. It has such a charming and cozy energy about it. The people are, for the most part, very friendly and warm. People are always passing by on the street with a ‘hello, love, are ya all right’, and catching each other up on the local neighborhood gossip. There were in fact several times I had to do a double take, thinking I saw my own Grandad, as I walked by some older gentlemen on the street with their arms gently crossed behind their backs the way he used to do. The gardens (yards) are pristine with manicured lawns, bright blooming rose bushes and narrow drives. Most of the houses are a variation of gray stone to them and the names of the towns are literally straight out of a story-book.

The Saville’s House!

We were fortunate enough to stay with Mal and Tracy (the Saville’s) our longtime family friends, or more like just family. As we pulled into the Shipley Train station, we prepared to walk the mile and a half to the Saville’s house, but as we turned the corner there Mal stood waiting for us to arrive! It was so great to see him in his bright orange Polo, Birkenstocks and generous smile, reminding me that some things never change! We greeted each other and headed to the house, which they so generously allowed us to call home for well over a week! As we pulled into the drive, Burt, the sweet ol’ hound was at the gate anxious to say hello.

BURT!

A week at the Saville’s was the best, and we certainly appreciated their immeasurable hospitality.  They had mountain bikes, and a bright yellow tandem bike waiting in their driveway for us upon arrival, and even provided amazing and detailed cycle routes for us. More on that later. We enjoyed tea together each evening (tea means dinner for the non Haley’s reading the blog. A concept that to Clayton, seemed both confusing and at times stupid to call ‘dinner’, ‘tea’, when tea is the clear name of a warm beverage, and something consumed all day every day in England). We were able to cycle casually along the canal, and check out neighboring towns. Additionally, we enjoyed acting out skits from Frozen and having some karaoke sing alongs with their daughter Melanie.

Clayton and I enjoyed having a place to land and relax as much as we needed. We decided we would go hiking in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales which just happen to be in the Saville’s backyard. After a short bit of research we landed on attempting the ‘Three Peaks Challenge’. Sounds, invigorating, huh? The Three Peaks Challenge was well known in the area, and involves hiking 26 miles over the three tallest peaks in the Yorkshire Dales,  Pen-y-ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough all within twelve hours. Mal’s friend provided us with a full book on what the hike would entail, and also some insider scoop on what to expect. The day before the hike we packed up our lunch and ensured we had the necessary layers ready for the unpredictable English weather.

The hike began in Horton-in-Ribbensdale, about an hour and half away from the Saville’s house. Unable to get an early enough train, Mal kindly woke up at 4:30am and drove us all the way to the start, before then turning around and driving back to a full days work. The challenge was organized through the Pen-y-ghent Cafe and based on the honor system. Each person attempting the challenge signed in at the Cafe before they departed and needed to check in once they returned. We saw a few other hikers in the parking lot gearing up for the same hike. Mal initiated conversation with them and next thing you know, we were taking photos of their  detailed map and directions, which ended up being the most helpful thing we had! We signed in at the Cafe (which was closed), by slipping our information and start time through the mail slot. The clock began and we were off! We waved good bye to Mal and turned through the one of many narrow stone lined fences that divide each field from the next.

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It was about 6:30AM when we started walking and the clouds were very low, creating a dense thick fog in all directions. The terrain varied from nice stone paths, worn down grassy trials and soaking wet boggy mud that Clayton actually fell through twice. When I say fell through, I mean he met massive holes in the ground, and sunk up to his thigh in mud. Thankfully, as usual I was behind and didn’t follow in his footsteps. The fog made it difficult to see exactly which direction we needed to go, but we found our way through the necessary snickets and over the stone walls that led us peak to peak. Checking our watches occasionally, we knew we were making good pace and decided to stop for lunch near a nice stream. After an enjoyable lunch of smushed sandwiches, mini cookies and grapes we continued on! The views became a bit clearer as we went, and we were able to catch glimpses of iconic sites like the Ribblehead Viaduct. Nearing the end we whipped out our nutritious MARS candy bar for an extra boost. (Literally, we ate so much chocolate, I’m still finding candy bar wrappers in the pockets of various clothing. Eek).

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Before we knew it, our twenty-six miles were up and we found ourselves back in Horton-in-Ribbensdale signing out at the cafe at 3:45PM, putting our total time at right around nine hours and fifteen minutes! The cafe was closed, which was disappointing, but we filled out the completion slips and went to the nearby pub for a celebratory pint! Days later we found a nice email from the Pen-y-ghent Cafe congratulating us on completing the challenge and welcoming us into the Three Peaks Club. The message continued with an order form where we could mail in six pounds for a special badge and other ‘custom gear’.  I mean I was expecting a plaque and awards ceremony, but whatever.

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Yorkshire was absolutely postcard pretty. And it’s a good thing too because on one of the most clear and beautiful days we had, we found ourselves embarking on yet another physical challenge. This time, mountain bikes and fifty miles of windy, only uphill roads that brought out a whole new side of Emma. I’m going to be brutally honest here (and very dramatic). Sure, we’ve done some hard hikes, long days of walking, running, the whole nine yards. Sure, I thought I loved adrenaline-rushing exercise. I even thought I loved bike riding. Well on July 21, 2016 I absolutely, positively hated bike riding and everything to do with being active.

Backing up a bit, Mal’s connections struck again with fantastic bike route recommendations from a close friend. We had play-by-play directions taking us through various cities and famous sites, including Bolton Abbey. The route directions from Keighly to Ilkley were on point, and fun to follow. They included interesting stops for lunch and good pull offs at a ‘help your self’ coffee  stand, which was nothing more than a few baked goods and a donation jar in an old stone farm shed. We were well taken care of, and well prepared in that regard. However, for me mentally it was a rough experience.

There wasn’t a specific moment I hated, it was just overall really hard and I found myself in quite the miserable mood. For starters my morning didn’t start out the best. As we left Mal’s house, we realized my back bike tire had a large flat. With no time to fix it before the train left, we dug out Tracy’s old bike from the shed, pumped up the tires and made a mad dash to the Shipley station in order to catch the 9:02 train. I wasn’t exactly as put together as I would have liked to be. Both of my shoes were untied, my camelback was unzipped and twisted on my back and my helmet was unbuckled. With no time to adjust anything, we jumped on the bikes and began the INSANE descent down Carr Lane hill. This hill is massive and unavoidable. It takes about 12 minutes to go up and about 2 minutes to go down. Going down the narrow sidewalk is terrifying as you have absolutely no control and cars are zipping past all around you. I found myself in a trace of burnt rubber smells and aching raw knuckles from braking down the entire hill. As we cruised into the train station, I was sweaty, stressed and tired. We carried the heavy mountain bikes up the three flights of stairs to the train platform just as it pulled in to the station. I pulled myself together on the train and enjoyed the scenic views passing through the windows all, Girl on the Train style.

The cycling route was undoubtedly beautiful, with stunning views, amazing cafe stops and villages that really gave us a taste of old-style England. The hills on this route however were the worst, for me anyway. There were several times I thought I was alone on the road and would shout out inappropriate words and let a few tears fall, only to find older gentlemen on their thousand dollar road bikes cruising past asking if I were in fact, ‘okay’. Not sure how to answer, I was thankful they were moving much faster than me.

I walked my bike up a majority of the hills, counting down the hours that I estimated we had left. I thought maybe the rolling downhills would be fun. But nope. On the downhills, I was nervous I wouldn’t be able to stop or that a car would be coming head on down the narrow one lane roads. Injuring thoughts rushed through my head. Changing gears, my chain fell off a few times causing me to walk it miles up hill until I saw Clayton waiting. He patiently explained and showed me how to fix it while I stood cross armed on the side of the road not wanting to listen. I was being a brat, and couldn’t shake it. Thoughts of selling my road bike back home drifted through my head as I vowed I’d never get on a bike again.

Finally, 50 miles later we pulled into Ilkey, the end of the ride. We locked our bikes up outside the pub and had a undeserving beer before catching the next train back to Shipley. I’d never been happier to get off that bike. I don’t know exactly what my problem was, but I was disappointed with my attitude on the occasion, especially with how absolutely beautiful the ride in fact was! After the train ride and a nice meal at the Savile’s weekly Italian dinner spot, I was able to regain some mental stability and dismiss the neglecting thoughts I had about my own beloved bike.

Only a day passed before I was back on a bike. This time Clayton and I took the tandem over to the park, where we rode with Melanie and others in the inclusive cycling program. The program provides a variety of different bicycle types and a set time each week for people to cycle. It was awesome watching Melanie and her friends add up the ‘laps’ they did around the paved loop and we enjoyed jumping in and trying new types of bikes ourselves.

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After cycling we showered and prepared to meet up with my family, the Walkers for a traditional fish and chips dinner! It had been some time since I’d seen them but we picked right back up where we left off, with good stories and laughs all around. It was wonderful to catch with them and meet the newest and most adorable (sorry Rachel) member of the Walker family, baby Annie.

The fish and chip dinner was just as you’d expect; delicious! Served with white bread and cups of tea, we couldn’t get enough of the traditional English meal. After dinner is when the historical tour of the Haley family began. Matthew, Rachel, Ann and Steven took me through the old neighborhood where we used to live. Pointing out our old house, we spotted the neighbors out in the garden. Before I knew it, we were all together on the small patch of lawn exchanging stories of the past (literally, 27 years ago past), and catching up on all that there was. Of course I never remember Jed and Gene or any time of life in England since I was only a baby, but ‘boy, do they remember me, so little, and that Jenny!’ Everybody in England loves Jenny, by the way. After a quick snapshot of us all, Clayton included, we were back in the car and continuing on to my Grandparents old house, Ann and my Dad’s old school, and everywhere in between. It was the best! I loved being able to see the places I always hear about so often in stories and appreciated the Walkers being our official tour guides of the past.

Before we departed Yorkshire, we were fortunate enough to indulge in a Sunday roast of meat, potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. The next morning Mal once again carted us to the train station, we said our farewells and headed on to the big city life of Oxford and London.

Our time in Oxford was quick, but the University environment got our academic minds ablaze, as we spent most of our day popping in and out of book stores and divulging into our own books on cafe stools. We were grateful once again to have Clayton’s friend from college, Carolyn and her fiancé allowing us to stay with them. We enjoyed a nice BBQ and some quality time catching up over stories of travels, living abroad, work and life.

The final stop in the England itinerary was London. Forty-eight hours in the largest city in the United Kingdom was both intimating and invigorating. Thankfully, we had yet another generous friend, Laura who let us crash at her amazing temporary housing unit, less than two weeks after moving there herself! The friend game didn’t stop with Laura! We were lucky enough to coordinate with our good friend Blades and her friend Corey who were traveling abroad in Ireland just days before. They made a pit stop to London while we were there and we loved bouncing around the tourist spots together and hitting up some of the coolest restaurants around! Corey and Blades came loaded with suggestions on all the places we needed to see and insider recommendations on sweet places to go, including Gordon’s Wine Bar; a dark cellar cave serving awesome wines and cheeses by candle light! On top of all of that, we were able to catch our world traveling friend, Graham who we’d met a few years ago during our work-away in Chile. London really was a reunion of sorts, and wonderful to say the least!

In a blur as most things are, we were back at Laura’s packing up for an early morning to the airport for our LAST international (over water) flight to the Maple Leaf country of C-A-N-A-D-A.

Sigh. England was amazing. A slice of home with generous family, friends, comfortable places to throw our bags and rest our heads. We’re truly thankful for the unbelievable hospitality we experienced. We’re thankful for the rides all over the countryside, making sure we knew where to go, feeding us and providing one million chocolate bars, and more importantly making us feel at home after being on the road for so long.

And although we don’t sound like we’re from London, we sure wish we did. Until next time, England!

Gear Check

The travel count is now (well) officially over 100 days! That means we’ve been living out of our trusty backpacks for well over a dozen weeks. Remember that post way back when, describing what’s in that bag we’ve been lugging around? Well, we’re here to unzip our favorite items and ‘gear check’ our packs after we’ve moved across the globe and it’s temperamental climate differences.

Moving from the scorching Asian heat to Arctic Circle regions, meant our wardrobe had to change. Thankfully, we were able to plan ahead and have Kyle bring us a few items when he met us in Iceland. In exchange, we sent him home with some warmer clothes, and items we thought we no longer needed for the rest of our journey. Take a look below at what we’ve loved having and how our gear has changed throughout our travels.

Favorite Travel Items  

Emma’s Top 3 Fav’s

Teva’s: Don’t you dare roll your eyes. These velcro fashion faux faux saved my feet from the rough roads of South East Asia and beyond. Worn with literally everything from gym shorts to dresses, I could always rely on these shoes to let my feet breath, get wet and dry quickly, and provide comfort as we walked an average of ten miles a day. Unfortunately, due to the aggressive and sour stench of the over worn shoes, sent these sandals home after Asia. Gonna need to get some baking soda on those bad boys, mom!

Sleep Sack: I don’t know everything, but I know this much: don’t travel without a sleep sack. We used our sleep sacks almost every night in Asia. Some places didn’t provide sheets and with other places we felt most comfortable slipping into something we knew where it had been. They provided warmth when we needed it, and a comfortable option for a solid night of sleep. Although we stupidly sent them home post Iceland, our sleep sacks were also necessary for hiking in Norway as some of the cabins we stayed in required us to bring our own sheets.

Lululemon Side Bag: Almost every day we have headed out the door, I’ve had my trusty side bag attached to the hip. Holding the necessities of digital camera, GoPro, cell phone (for quick snaps and the Google blue dot), sun glasses, credit card, and various other daily gadgets. It always felt like a Mary Poppins bag, able to carry everything I ever needed it to, no matter what the occasion. It also helps that the bag is from my favorite brand Lululemon so sporting each day gave me a smile. The pockets were perfect for easy access and I felt comfortable being able to swing my side bag to my front in crowded markets or times I wanted my valuables close.

 

*GoPro is the obvious favorite here, but that’s just assumed. Duh.

Clayton’s Top 3 Fav’s

Kindle Paperwhite: Clayton’s Kindle never leaves his side. He’s read over twenty books since we started traveling. He loves the ability to take a book anywhere and have it fit easily inside a backpack, or sometimes even his pocket. We basically don’t even talk on this trip- yay for Kindle!

Sea to Summit Dry Sack: No matter what the weather, the Dry Sack gives Clayton (and myself)  confidence that anything we put inside the Dry Sack will not get wet. We’ve really tested it’s limits fitting two Kindles, iPad, camera, notebooks, maps and wallets.

Midori Traveler’s Notebook: Clayton’s rusty trusty field notes are kept accessible and organized with this leather-bound case. It of course fits in his pocket for convenient use and contains a daily journal, notepad for random thoughts, and tracks all our daily expenses. It gets used A LOT.

What we’ve added along the way:

Packable Winter Down Jackets: Going from over 100 degrees down to 40 we needed these jackets for our time in Iceland, Norway and Canada. Thankfully they pack down tight and are super warm!
Camelbacks: With anticipated hiking everywhere, we figured we would use Camelbacks for solid days on our feet in the mountains. So far, we’re so glad we have them.

Stocking Cap: Used these mostly in the Iceland cold, but anticipate much use on cool Canada mornings!

Gloves: Can’t risk cold days in Iceland, Norway or Canada without a trusty pair of gloves.

Jeans: Sometimes I feel I have to tell myself pants with buttons actually exist. Having Kyle bring my trusty ‘adventure’ jeans was a great reminder there are more in this world than leggings and running shorts.

Backpack(s): This one goes both ways. Having only a side bag, I needed a small backpack for the Nepal hiking trek. I picked up a $12 fake NorthFace pack and it’s now become a crucial part of my packing regime. Clayton has completely changed big packs. Kyle brought him his 32L Deuter backpack, sending back his 40L Osprey, his small size of pack is impressive.

 

Shoes: Always a difficult packing piece, my shoe game changed quite a bit. I picked up a fake pair of Salomon ‘trail running’ shoes in Nepal for our hiking trek. Additionally, I was fortunate enough to have my mom leave me a pair of running shoes in England so I would have a reliable pair to run my 1/2 marathon in. I also picked up a pair of Birkenstocks courtesy of Tracy, and they haven’t left my feet!

What we ditched:

Custom made Vietnam clothing: We both gathered a few custom made items in Vietnam for ‘life post travel’, and sent the nice clothes back while we finish being vagabonds.

Teva sandals: left these with Kyle after Asia. You know how I feel about them, my true love.

Summer stuff: We also sent a few tanks and clothes we needed to survive Asia that wouldn’t work for the cool climates in Europe and Canada.

Journals & Books: A lot of memories went back with Kyle, including a full journal of our daily adventures. Don’t worry another trusty moleskin is in use and the pages are filling up quickly! We also picked up a few ‘real books’ to give our Kindles a rest. If you need a copy of The Innocents Abroad, Clayton’s got one he’d love to share.

Sleep Sacks: Our biggest mistake of the trip so far! We sent them home thinking our time in the Western world wouldn’t require them. However, we came to realize that cabin rooms in Norway required us to provide our own sheets and would have provided some added warmth on those cooler nights.

Hum, it sure seems like we’ve added a lot more than we’ve ditched, which probably explains why my pack is more full than it’s ever been. However, colder places mean bulkier clothing and we both feel pretty good with what we’ve got. It hasn’t always been easy having everything fit into 46 liters (even less for Clayton), but it’s mostly been rewarding to know you can make do on so little. The biggest lesson we’ve learned is that you can buy things along the way. Before we left we felt we needed absolutely everything at once, which just isn’t the case. Countries all over the world provide stores with clothing and other necessities. Guess we will have to gear up for another adventure with the knowledge we have now!

Yesway to Norway

Ranked as one of the most expensive countries in the world, Norway is certainly rich in more than economic value. With wonderful people and jaw-dropping views around every corner, Norway officially tops my list for most unexpected country yet. It’s unique culture and intricacies match its natural landscapes. The country was filled with trolls as iconic structures and delicious brown cheeses to fill our stomachs. With a world-class outdoor culture and fantastic trail-system we set off with unknown expectations to explore our first Scandinavian grounds!

Before jetting north to our various hiking spots, we spent the first two days checking out the capital city of Oslo where we were treated like royalty at yet another amazing Airbnb. Alright, I know. I’m sure you’re tired of hearing about our A-1 accommodations, but bear with me; this country and specifically our first Airbnb takes the cake, or should I say gourmet meals.

Despite our late arrival to our Airbnb, we were greeted by host Ereland and welcomed into his fabulous apartment. Complete with fabric walls, glittering chandeliers and beautiful art sculptures, I wondered if we had in-fact checked in to the correct place. No sooner had we dropped our bags were we dining via candlelight enjoying top-notch salmon, mashed potatoes and puréed peas with Ereland and Ivan (another long-term guest from Serbia). Ereland explained that cooking was his form of yoga and mode of relaxation, especially while his husband was away traveling for work. I can understand why he loves it, as the meal was outstanding, and completely unexpected!

 

The hospitality didn’t stop there. We picked up our fuel efficient rental car and loaded up with a weeks ration of groceries. Remember, Norway is so expensive there was No(r)Way we could afford to eat out. Grocery shopping in another language could be another blog post in itself, but it always gave us a laugh especially when trying to self-check out at a machine in Norwegian. Thankfully most of the grocery stores have wifi so we can double check that ‘skinke’ is actually the ham we wanted as lunch meat. And when there isn’t wifi, I learned it’s crucial to ask the lady next to you in the dairy aisle if what your eying is ‘normal milk’, or else you may find yourself eating cereal with sour milk- holy disgusting!

Moving along, the next evening we found ourselves packing up for a warm Summer’s night barbecue. I helped dice some potatoes as we filled a cooler with fresh salad, meat and bottle of champagne. Ereland took us to his ‘city-escape’, a community garden in the middle of Oslo that made you feel as if you were a world away. We set up a table, chairs and talked as the sun set below the high hanging trees surrounding us. The food was once again amazing, but the company was better. We shared stories of travels, our home countries, exciting opportunities and everything in between. We were yet again blown away by the hospitality and genuine good in people that we’ve encountered along our journey!

The hospitality continued to roll into each Airbnb we stayed at. En route up north we stayed halfway at what I’ve come to call, ‘the trolls house’ due to the evident fact that the kind hosts resembled these creatures. I say this in the best way! Aase and her husband welcomed us into their warm, cozy home that was crowded with photos on the wall and every little knick-knack possible. It was overwhelming and wonderful at the same time. We were spoiled again with a full dinner and spent the evening talking with them and their grandchildren who have traveled to over 60 countries themselves and are only 8 and 11- pretty impressive! We said goodbye and smiled as the trolls snapped our photo and became one of their over 200 Airbnb guests!

We continued on into the fjords and mountains that make Norway the ideal computer background. We made it to Rondane National Park, where we had our first encounter with the best hiking system in the world. With almost more trails than roads, it is common for people to head out for multiple day hikes, and stay at various DNT (The Norwegien Trekking Association) cabins that are placed throughout the country, providing people with a place to sleep and eat as they complete their hikes. The trails are extremely well marked with bright red T’s painted on rocks or wooden sign markers.

Let it be known that Norweiangs do the outdoors right. They have all the trails to explore and they use them religiously! Dressed to the nines in top-line hiking gear, families of all ages undergo any weather and get outside. It’s awesome to see little kids (some of them as young as four), trudging through mud, over rocks twice their size and literally thinking nothing of it. It was inspiring.

Anyway, the first cabin we stopped at was at the end of a four mile winding pedestrian only road. We packed what we would need and decided to check out the cabin in the park and do a few shorter hikes using it as a base. Now, when I thought ‘hikers-cabin’ I expected a falling apart shelter, where you’d dust cobwebs off the doorknob and sleep with one eye open. Silly me, we’re in Norway. The cabin was pristine, with warm lounging areas, a fire place and a fully staffed kitchen. I even took photos for design inspiration! Not to mention it was surrounded by a stunning lake and rising fjords. (RIP pictures I deleted from this day).

They had two beds available in a dorm style room; no problem for us. We headed upstairs to find two platforms of 18 mattresses filling the room. The rooms were clean and well kept, which made up for the old man who slept next to me and snored like a freight train for seven hours straight.

We spent the days there doing some nearby hikes, including a 2,500 meter peak hike that was straight up and covered in snow. The sights were obviously beautiful and once done hiking we walked the four miles back to our car. Stopping along the roads for some more hiking and high hopes of spotting some wild moose! The evening brought us to Andalsnes, the Mountain Capital of Norway. True to it’s name this city by the water was surrounded with amazing peaks, waterfalls and postcard views. With another perfect Airbnb to call home, we settled in and prepared for more days of exploring the beautiful outdoors. The highlight of our time here was our 22 mile hike that began and ended only a mile from our house. With beautiful weather and camelbacks filled with water and lunch, we gawked at the fresh water streams, towering pine trees and immaculate trails. The beauty and exploration continued with pink evening skies, more short hikes and a crazy drive through a pin-turn road that only a photo can describe.

After a great three days in the mountain town, we swung by the famous Geiranger fjords and continued on to our final hiking destination in Jotunheimen. We stayed in a shared cabin and met some fellow travelers from New Zealand (the Kiwis continue to impress us everywhere), and enjoyed an exchange of travel stories! We completed the famous Bessegen hike that begins with a boat ride to the start of the trail. Hiking directly along the ridge of the fjord left us once again in awe of the beauty in Norway. We were surrounded by sweet views and families of ALL ages out and about for just a typical day in their country. Upon completion, we binged on cookies and chocolate spread pleased with our five and a half hour hike time.

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With tired legs and cameras filled with photos we drove backdown south to Oslo and decompressed before moving on to our next country. It’s without a doubt, Clayton and I hope to return back to Norway. It was a country packed with good people, good hiking and good grocery stores! Until next time, Norway, because yes-way we’ll be back!

The Land of Fire & Ice

Iceland. There is no denying this small country of 320,000 residents has a magical energy. Every turn unveils a waterfall greater than the last, and volcanic rock covers the ground. Hot springs pour underground creating ‘hot pools’ and massive glaciers create a dense fog in the sky, only adding to the majestic nature. With a palette of browns, greens and greys mixed with fields of lavender lupins painting the scenery, we did not tire gazing into the landscapes. There are rumors that Icelanders believe in fairies, and other hidden people. Naturally, it sounds foolish. Well, after ten days in this fairy-tale land, I walk away a little less skeptical.

Prior to arriving in Iceland, I’ve been asking Clayton if we can ‘rough it’ and sleep in the car at least once during our travels. ‘We need to really rough it, we can save some money, it will be fun!’. Well, my excitement for that idea has since diminished after finally getting my wish in the airport parking lot of Reykjavik, Iceland.

We promptly landed at KEF Airport at 12AM after a luxurious flight via Qatar Airways. (Seriously, if you ever get the chance, take Qatar Airways, and make sure it has a long layover in Doha- that airport is amazing!)

With only a few hours to wait until Clayton’s brother, Kyle and buddy Robbie arrived, we opted to pick up our rental car and sleep in the parking lot before they landed. We couldn’t wait to explore with them! With our trusty sleep sacks, we stretched out in the front seats and tried to rest our eyes despite the tight confines, and the confusing daylight that was streaming in from the windows in the middle of the night. Yes, that’s right, the midnight sun. Twenty-four hours of daylight in the beautiful summer months that are an Icelandic dream. It does wonders for the summer traveler on a timeline, but confuses the heck out of your body and melatonin levels.

But who has time to worry about sleep when you just stepped foot into the country we’ve all been waiting for?! We sure didn’t. Once we collected Kyle and Robbie from their flight, our Iceland adventure truly began.

Going into this trip, we knew we wanted to see as much of Iceland as possible. That meant renting a car and hitting the road. Our first stop in the country would be in a small town (yes, they are all small towns), Borgarnes. We followed our directions, passing through towns with names sporting at least thirteen letters long, most of those including crazy consonants next to each other. I’m not exaggerating. Ten bucks to anyone who can pronounce the Icelandic names mentioned throughout this post. Best of luck.

So, after a two hour drive from Reykjavik, we turned and began a 15 kilometer drive down a long, winding gravel road to our home for the night. Pulling in, we stood in front of a traditional Icelandic home. A ‘turf house’ with real grass as the roof; proof of the strong incorporation of nature literally everywhere. Unfortunately, there was a miscommunication of check-in times and the previous guests answered our skeptical knock on the door in their underwear. Allowing them time to properly check-out we headed to the grocery store and then on an ‘uncharted’ hike straight up the tallest mountain we could see. The clouds rolled in creating a mystical fog, while the ground soaked our feet. We didn’t mind as we stumbled over loose rocks and through tall grasses. So began the common theme of wet socks and shoes and doing our best to dry them each night with a miniature hair-dryer. In addition, it was nice to embrace the cooler temperatures drifting in from the close proximity to the Arctic Circle. Literally, cool!

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Once we were able to check-in we collapsed with exhaustion from lack of sleep and adrenaline surges slowing down. A few hours later we were well rested, and back on the road. We drove the uncrowded roads to Snaefells Peninsula where we stood on the coast above the rocky cliffs and gazed into the crashing waters below. Amazed by the views, we were shocked when our watches said 10PM as complete daylight surrounded us. We ventured through the Peninsula, marveling at wide waterfalls and peculiar shaped mountains jutting up through the lava field rocks. Driving at high as we could, we ended up being stopped by a massive glacier consuming the roads. Getting out of the car, we strolled across until it was too cold to bear. As midnight approached, we began to turn towards home just in time to see the sky light up with unbelievable pinks and oranges. Unable to describe fully what we saw, I’ll have to leave you with the photos below:

It’s safe to say, our first twenty-four hours in Iceland were done at lightning pace and we’d already seen so much. We’d been on top of a glacier, stood under waterfalls, watched the sky turn shades of pink we didn’t know possible while Icelandic horses galloped below it. We saw cliffs and coasts, mountains, sheep and fields of lavender lupins. After day one, we knew the next ten days in Iceland were going to be one for the books, or should I say the blog!

Our next two days took us to a place in Iceland only 13% of visitors ever go, the Westfjords. We believed the small percentage of visitors to be true, when we hardly passed anyone along our entire drive north, and again maybe two cars once we got closer to their largest town, Isafjordur.

Surrounded by stunning beauty the entire time, we didn’t mind the long hours spent driving in the car. The roads throughout Iceland are marked with asterisks, identifying specific points of interest. Never exactly sure what each one would hold, we took our time exploring those that ‘felt right’, and were never disappointed with what we found. We enjoyed taking a few highland roads, only suitable for 4×4 vehicles. I think our ‘ah-ha’ moment came when we rounded a corner to find the largest waterfall any of us had ever seen. It’s sheer width left us speechless. Hiking up towards the powerful waterfall, we were splashed with its glacier-cold water and continued to gazed in awe. I still have goosebumps just thinking back on it. Amazing.

 

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The Westfjords introduced us to our first interactions with the stern-but friendly Icelandic people. We were in need of some time on our feet, and ventured out to find a hike nearby. Not seeing a clear trail-head, we ended up walking down someones driveway to ask the two men outside if they were familiar with it. The man leaning on the gate, (who thankfully spoke English), stepped aside and told us to go explore. Yep, we like these Icelandic folk. Hiking through their backyards, we followed the sheep’s narrow single track and continued higher and higher scaling over some big rocks, our parents probably wouldn’t have approved of. The steep climb was well worth it, as we found pools of water hidden on top and amazing views of the valleys below.

 

Feeling slightly rushed to get back to our hostel where they were showing the Iceland vs. England Euro Cup match, we ran down the rocks and hopped over the streams to get back in time. A little late we turned on the radio in the car to try and catch some highlights. In case you didn’t know, Kyle, Robbie, Clayton and I do not speak Icelandic. In fact, we couldn’t even gander at how to pronounce half of the places we went to. However, listening to the soccer game in Icelandic on the radio proved that sports broadcasters all sound the same, no matter what the language. With the commentator’s voice raising into girly levels we knew something was happening. After more screaming filling the speakers we determined that Iceland had in fact scored. ‘Einn- null’. Minutes later the high tones returned, more yelling, more screaming, something that sounded like Iceland scores, and sure enough ‘tveir-null’ Iceland was repeated over and over. We laughed at the humor of understanding so much Icelandic through tone, and finally arrived to catch the rest of the game on a large projector in the nearby barn. Despite a surprising Viking victory, my English roots cringed a bit at the loss. Don’t tell my Dad, but it was fun to watch such a small country have great success and be there to watch how proud the local Icelanders were with the win.

The next day included more driving as we curved around the entire Westfjords to complete our loop and head south towards more Icelandic beauty. We were lucky enough to spot seals splashing around in the icy waters as we passed by. Kyle and Robbie were good sports with eating packed lunches everyday, always including a sandwich, chips and of course our special treat, Polo cookies. No time for fancy foods in an expensive land, and so much exploring to do. Although, let’s be real we impressed ourselves when eating grilled chicken sandwiches and corn on the cob on the side of the road.

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After many hours of what we decided was like driving on the moon, over vast rocks and eerie landscapes we arrived ‘down south’ where the population of tourists and residents was expected to increase. Our first night ended with a late night (in complete daylight), hike straight up to a natural hot pool. With our swimsuits underneath our winter jackets, we headed up. Pockets of steam erupted from the grounds all around us. We passed bubbling pools of water, where caution signs were placed strategically, showing the waters exceeding over 100 degrees Celsius. Holy hot springs! I guess that’s what happens in a land with over 113 active volcanoes. The hot pool was a long narrow natural river where we were able to relax and talk about how confusing the experience truly was. Another unique Icelandic treat!

The next few days led us to many varying sights and experiences. We watched geysers erupt from the ground spraying between 15-20 meters straight up. Kyle was most excited about this, as he was determined to stand in the splash zone of the geyser. After a few weaker eruptions, he began to walk away just as a massive one exploded from the ground. I think deep down, he was happy he missed it.

We continued on in search of the volcano Hekla, that erupted in 2010 causing flight interruptions all over Europe. The clouds parted enough for us to catch a few glimpses, and once again we were amazed. After we explored more stunning waterfalls pounding over rocks in deep rock caverns. Eventually, we found some some Icelandic horses we could feed, and even mustered up enough courage to pet one!

Perhaps my favorite part of Iceland was our hike just 20 minutes from our last Airbnb. We found a trail marked on a map and took off. Unsure of exactly how long it would be, we packed our standard lunches in our bags and layered up. Taking off we lunged over rocky paths, hilly plains, underneath waterfalls, and literally jumped with full faith over flowing streams. Strangely, I was the only one who ended up shin deep in freezing cold water missing the shore by a good step. Brr! After fending off tame sheep while we ate our lunch, we began our ascent to the peak, turning around to catch our breath and stunning views. At one point, we had to forge around a glacier still frozen over the trail. Thankfully Clayton led the way and we followed cautiously around steep loose rocks. Once past the glacier, we continued up and along the ridge of the mountain. It’s hard to accurately describe the terrain and landscape. It’s like nothing we’ve seen. Neon green moss covered several rocks creating an awesome glow into the distance. Bright packs of pink flowers spotted up around the grey rocks and the foggy clouds moved in and out creating drastic visibility. All we saw left us speechless once again. As you’ve noticed that is a common effect of Iceland. We spent some time admiring the views before heading down and completing our 13.5km hike.

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Unfortunately, our time in Iceland was winding down. We drove into Reykjavik where we would spend our last night before Kyle and Robbie headed back to the States and Clayton and I continued on to Norway. After a few more points of interest were checked off the map, we entered the city in time for Kyle to get picked up for his scuba dive trip. While he was 40 feet below the earth, exploring the clearest water around, Robbie, Clayton and I explored the quaint streets of the city. Once Kyle returned, the boys headed out for a quick stroll and beer to celebrate an awesome adventure in the land of Fire and Ice!

We will miss Iceland and all it’s beauty. We will miss driving through it’s wide landscapes gazing past volcanic rock fields into snow-covered mountains hosting massive glaciers. We will miss the hundreds of waterfalls in varying sizes too. Mostly, we will miss Kyle and Robbie, who took time before their busy ‘real-world’ life started to travel with us. Thanks for the laughs, car games to pass the hours and even though I never won, the rounds of Euchre! We loved driving across the magical country with you both, eating bakery treats for breakfast and discovering everything including the edge of the world! Until next time!

 

 

 

Goodbye, Sweet Asia!

We both can’t believe that we are over two months into our adventure. It has been nothing short of amazing. Exploring new countries and different cultures has filled us with new perspectives and lifetime memories. We’ve had truly the time of our lives.

As we depart Asia and head back to the Western World, we wanted to reminisce on what we will and will not miss from our time here. It’s definitely not a complete list, but thought it would be fun to share.

Seven Countries Explored!

 

Asian things we won’t miss:

The bathroom situation.

No two are alike. Most places you had to bring your own toilet paper as its not common to have complementary in each bathroom. Some toilets came with a bucket of water and scoop to flush the waste down yourself. Along with that we will not miss the smell of many Asian bathrooms due to not being able to flush toilet paper down the toilet and the hot temperatures of each stall.  I am however thinking of adding ‘squatty potty pro’ on my resume. Too much?

Lack of Driving Rules & No Signage.

Asian roads have been wild. Honking horns, speeding cars and bikes mixed with pedestrians and often times large animals. Yes, the adrenaline rush is exciting at first, but the stress of off-roading almost everywhere got exhausting. It’s been difficult to find consistent signage of roads, making navigating sans a phone plan really hard.

Confusion.

There is a common lack of clarity among everything we are told and do. It’s definitely due to a language barrier, but has been consistent through our travels. No proper queues, no clear ordering line, and unclarity when decifering if payment before during or after is expected. Systems just don’t exist sometimes. However, always being in the dark makes for a lot of interesting experiences and plenty of laughs.

Negotiation.

This one could almost fall into both categories. Along the lines of clarity it’s common that there are prices for different people for the same product or service. Having to barter for everything gets a little old after a while. On the flip, it’s fun to see your skills and actually talk to the person selling you something. It’s much more personal and often times you snag great deals or feel good paying a fair price to help the local markets.

Instant coffee.

At first, we fell in love but quickly grew tired of Nescafé packets and their tangy aftertaste.

Asian things we will miss:

No shoes here.

We always had to take off our shoes before entering a home, temple, etc. yes it got annoying at times but with how dirty streets and sidewalks are it was comforting to take off our shoes and keep the space clean.

WONDERFUL PEOPLE!

We’ve met some incredible humans. With extreme amounts of patience and respect, they have helped us feel welcome and comfortable thousands of miles away in a completely different culture. We will miss the friendly smiles and hearing the different greetings as we pass by. Most of all, we will miss the Boon’s the Nima’s the Tri’s the Jenny’s and the fellow travelers who made being across the world a lot more like home.

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Adorable children.

Seriously every single child we saw was so cute. Nothing tops the polite Nepal kids with their quick Namaste and prayer hand folds as we pass. My heart is melting.

Prices.

Living for around $25 a day we got used to .25 cent beers and 1.50 lunches. Beers for everyone!

Simplicity and Family Life.

Life as we’ve seen has been simple and slow. Families are the most important element in the cultures we’ve visited and it is amazing to watch the respect cultivated for one another in the home and community. People take time to authentically connect with each other face to face. It was a clear sign of the importance of relationships.

Sinage.

We’ve seen some hilarious signs. Often misinterpreted English phrases, or elaborate messaging, we got some good laughs everywhere we went. (Examples to come when I have an easy way of organizing photos!)

Smoothies.

After easily eating close to one a day, we loved the fresh variety of fruits blended up to create a cool snack in the blistering heat. Mango smoothies are still number one on our list of favorite food so far. I’m craving one now having just typed that!

Food, food, food.

Sure, I was the one who was tired of noodles and hot soups in 100 degree weather, but the favors and spices mixed in with just about everything will leave my mouth watering until I return!

Experiences.

Most importantly we will miss the experiences we’ve had being thousands of miles away. This was by far our biggest culture shock, and we can’t begin to explain the memories we’ve made. The people we met along the way will forever be remembered as welcoming us into their communities and cultures. We’ve seen things that help us appreciate all that we have and we have witnessed the beauty and dedication people have to their traditions and countries. We’re forever grateful.

Peace out, Asia! We will miss you! 

 

Namaste, Nepal!

“I travel not to cross countries off a list, but to ignite passionate affairs with destinations.”

Nepal is a fascinating place and one I personally was thrilled to make a destination on our journey. It’s a relatively small place yet everything within the borders is of enormous scale. With 8 of the top 10 highest mountains in the world, you could fit the entire country of Nepal in the state of Missouri, yet if you lay it out flat it would be nearly the size of the entire United States of America. Their culture is one of warm welcoming and hospitality. You would struggle to go anywhere and not be offered a kind “Namaste” and cup of tea. It is located in South Asia but offered a drastic change to the Asian countries we visited prior. It was our first taste of Indian culture because of the deep integration of people, politics, food and materials. The integration is almost seamless at times, for example we received Indian rupees as change from a cab driver.

Unfortunately, the news broadcasting the 2015 earthquake in Nepal and destruction it brought has hurt the country in many way, especially tourism (the main industry). Nepal has bounced back with a lively spirit and more than ever they are ready for travelers to make their way back. 95% of trekking trails that were effected have been rebuilt and brand new lodgings are placed where damaged buildings once stood. I would say the ‘Top of the World’ majestic scenery and kind-hearted people really drew us in from the moment we began our itinerary back in Chicago.

Upon an evening arrival into Kathmandu we were greeted with a traditional garland of flowers by our host, Nima, at Friendship Home Stay in the Kapan area of Kathmandu. Immediately after dropping our bags, his family had tea and a dal baht dinner waiting for us. Dal baht is a traditional Nepali dish consisting of rice, curry, chicken or vegetables, a chutney and lentils. The guides of Nepal rely on the 24 hour dal baht power for every meal and mountain trekking fuel. This was our chance to catch our breath from traveling and get to know the family. Nima, following in his father, Lakpa’s footsteps has worked his way up in the trekking industry to become a guide and run a small business of his own. Their walls are decorated with pictures from peak hikes, treks and other explorations around the Himalayas. Emma and I couldn’t get enough of the stories they revealed.

Being treated like royalty! 

The next morning we ventured into the heart of Kathmandu, the Thamel area. Our goal was to stock up on a few warm layers and socks for the next 5 days of trekking. If you ever find yourself looking for ANY type of jacket, shoe, or bag at a discount, this is your place. We stocked up and after spending plenty of time in the barely-organized chaos of the Nepali vendors and alleyways we took a cab back to the Home Stay. The area of Kapan was easier on the ears. Wanting to stretch our legs and test out Emma’s new shoes, Lakpa took us on a wonderful walk around the area. His friendly face granted us a tour of a women’s monastery and temple followed with a trail along a ridge overlooking Kapan for a picturesque sunset. Getting closer to home we toured an orphanage run by a friend of his, Makila. The English-linguistics PhD herself gave us the full scope and background of the orphanage and their story of dealing with the earthquake damage barely a year ago.

On Wednesday we headed out of the city knowing it was time to see the mountains that make the ‘roof of the world’. Taking into account our shorter timeline, Emma and I opted for a 30 min flight versus a 7-10 hour bus ride on narrow mountain roads to Pokhara, where we would begin our trek. We landed and checked into the Admire Hotel before spending the afternoon exploring the small hub of trekkers that Pokhara has become. Pokhara is a completely different place.

A great lakeside mountain town with wide paved roads and curbs. Our guide Nima walked us through town to Phewa Lake to take a row boat across for a short yet steep hike up to World Peace Pagoda. Though it was a cloudy day, we still had a couple great glimpses of Pokhara and enjoyed a fine glass of tea and the view from the top. We slowly made our way down the far side arriving at Davi’s Falls, a cool waterfall that crashes into a cave creating a 500 meter long tunnel underground . It was here we finally met our porter, Ngimsang, who would be joining us on our trek and lifting all of our gear up the mountains with a big smile on his face.

We began early on June 22nd with a filling breakfast at our hotel. A car was to take the four of us, Nima, Nigmsang, Emma and I to the trailhead of our trek. This drive was our first glimpse of Nepali mountain roads…or lack there of. I would never condone smoking, but if anyone ever ‘deserved’ a stress relieving puff it would be our driver. Packed in a small 4 seat Toyota car, we zipped in, out, up, down and all around the ‘road’ to Nayapul. At times there were one-lane mud patches 100 yards long where we would compete with semi-trucks for who could make it through first; or at all. Most of these were conveniently located just before a hairpin switchback turn, so I guess you’d say we were lucky that no other traffic arrived on the other end? I don’t know if that’s luck. We only had to stop once for the bumper to be screwed back on, so all in all it was a typical hour long cab ride in Nepal.

The rain started just as we began hiking providing a solid reminder that we were still in monsoon season; we were going to get used to the rain. With rain gear in tow, we walked through the town of Nayapul, hit the trekker’s checkpoint, crossed a few suspension bridges and were instantly in awe of the enormity to come. The lush valleys and mere foothills of Lower Himalaya were grand in size and life. Immersed in the valleys we could feel the toughness of these villagers. They walk up very steep slopes for everything from farming, filling water, or playing a game of tag.

Stopping a couple hours into our trek for lunch in Tikhedhunga we received a respite from the rain. Again, so early into our trek we easily settled into the routine and way of life on the trail that would be repeated for the following days.

Eat
Trek
Tea
Trek
Eat
Sleep
Repeat.

Doing what we do best. 

We met a group of four from Colorado who also were having lunch and would be playing leapfrog with us on the trails for the next few days as they made their way to Annapurna Base Camp. After lunch the quads were woken up. We were off towards Ulleri, where we would stay the first night. But first, the stairs. This section consists of over 3,000 straight stone steps gaining elevation quickly and we were to tackle more than two thirds of them before Ulleri. It was great to get the lungs warmed up, even if we were constantly getting passed my mule loads carrying propane tanks and cinder blocks. Starting to savor the simple teahouse lifestyle we were blessed to meet some incredible friends starting the first day. With the four from Colorado, two Danes we started with, and all the guides and porters staying in the same place, a fun night of Pass the Pig, more tea and plenty of dal baht fuel was in store.

Our awesome Colorado Friends. AKA: The Umbrella Hikers 

Literal horsepower. 

On Day 2 of trekking we were to complete the stone steps section but the route remained mainly up steep slopes for the rest of the day. We had a few clear views of the hillsides and got our first experiences with the dense forest. A relatively short day of hiking, about 3.5 hours, brought us to the village of Ghorepani. We had the afternoon to walk around the village and pass the time chatting with other trekkers stopping for the night. Similar to other villages we stayed in, there were kids playing basketball and volleyball and they were already gearing up for the busy season to start again in September with the construction of brand new teahouses. We learned village kids grew up playing these sports while city kids usually played soccer due to the availability of flat ground.

Day 3 was our pinnacle morning. We would be hiking by 4:25 am in order to catch the 5 o’clock sunrise at Poon Hill. Poon Hill (10,500 ft.) would be the highest elevation of our short trek as well the best chance to see most of the Annapurna mountain range. Knowing it was monsoon season, the chances of it being clear for sunrise were low. However, we had come for the views so we were out of bed hiking no matter the weather. AND good thing we were! The four of us were blessed with an amazing clearing of clouds from 5am until 5:20am allowing us to see the Annapura range and five of the tallest mountains in the world (Dhaulagiri – 26,795 ft, Annapurna – 26,545 ft, Annapurna South – 23,684 ft, Machhapuchchhre – 22,943 ft, and Dhaulagiri Three – 25,311 ft).

Hello, Himalayas!

Being the only ones up there early enough to see them clearly, the four of us reveled in the moment. I was speechless, Emma was almost jumping for joy, Nima was working on all the camera angles to ensure we didn’t miss it and Ngimsang was ready to pose. We ended up spending over an hour on Poon Hill even though it became cloudy around 5:45am. By then there were a few other groups at the top and we did our best to hide the fact of how clear and great the views were just minutes before. Back down the hill for a filling breakfast and more tea, we were headed to the next village, Tadapani. It was all down hill from here. The hike to Tadapani was one of the most diverse of my life. We had the pleasure of plenty hills, mysterious and foggy Avatar-esque forests, Yosemite-like rock faces, and more waterfalls than we could count. A quick 5.5 hours of hiking and we were done for the day allowing us to have a good lunch and settle in before the rains began for the night. We also had the privledge of meeting two more friends from New Zealand. They had been hiking for over 10 days by the time we met, and it was fun to hear their stories and get to know them, as they are a teriffic duo. We loved chatting about life, trekking and our hopeful next adventures.

Day 4 of the hike we were up at 5am again hoping for a similar clear view, but that was not the case. Rain had continued through the night so we slept for a couple more hours thinking it would soon let up. Thankfully it did stop about 30 minutes into hiking for the day and the day was warm and pleasant. Even with stopping for tea around 10am, we made it to our last village of Ghandruk by 11am. Another short day of hiking gave us time to explore the largest and most populated village we would see. We enjoyed some cookies and coffee as well as two musuems of the Gurung ancestors that were the first to live in these mountain villages. We were able to see most of the tools, weapons and shelters they used back then. Though, most were exactly the same as the tools we saw being used today by village farmers.

Day 5 and the final day of our trek. Fitting enough, we fell asleep and awoke to the sound of rain. We started hiking at 7:30am in the rain after a delicious breakfast of muesli and pancakes. It was a long, steep and wet downhill day. With the rain off and on all day we enjoyed an eerie vibe walking through the clouds and fog covering rice fields, corn plots and raging rivers growing daily from the glacier runoff. More suspension bridges kept our feet dry and massive waterfalls seemed to be flowing from rock faces in every direction. We arrived back in Nayapul around 11:30am completing our five day loop and the four of us stopped for one last meal before the drive back to Pokhara. I’ll spare you the details of this drive because it was the same as before only this time heading the other direction on one-way mud slides and probably more sacrificial goats along the way.

Heading back to Kathmandu turned into more of an adventure than expected. Flights couldn’t land in Pokhara the day our tickets were scheduled for and weather kept planes from leaving Kathmandu the second day we attempted to fly. Two days of sitting in a tiny airport waiting for a plane was enough, so Nima arranged a truck to pick us up and drive the 8 hour journey. Emma believes this drive was the most dangerous piece of our travels yet, and I can’t seem to think of anything that tops the experience. At least 6 hours of the drive was spent barreling up and down the beat up mountain highway peering over cliff edges into a valley of monsoon driven rivers 300 feet below. This was usually fine but when 12 and 18-wheeled monstrous semi-trucks full of food, oil and other imports from India come screaming at you on the wrong side of the road… well you can only trust brake pads so much. However, it did make for one spectacular sunset over the mountains and through the valley.

One lane, two ways, no problem. 

Traveling has a way of forcing you to trust others in control of situations. There are times when you don’t have any say over what is happening and you have to either accept it and smile or you’ll be too anxious to make it through. I believe it was great to have two months of trusting practice prior to this drive into Kathmandu. We arrived at dark which was another reminder it is best to trust the locals. With frequent power outtages and only one main ‘road’ from Kathmandu into the mountains, it was wild to see hundreds of trucks lined up ready to start their night deliveries all honking in absolute pitch darkness. Needless to say, the homemade dal baht and tea waiting for us at Friendship Home Stay was remarkably delightful. With a good night of sleep and more pancakes in the morning, we made a switch in lodging near the Thamel city area. We took a day to do some travel planning on decent wifi and laundry of every clothing item before heading back to the Western world in Iceland.

Tea tastes better up here!

The Crew!